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Introduction to Iwate
Win Trainor, ALT
Kitakami, 1994-97
Congratulations on being selected to join the JET Program! We're as eager to meet you as you probably are to get over here and see Japan for the first time or perhaps in a different light from a previous trip. If you're anything like me, as soon as you found out you'd be living in Iwate, you anxiously flipped through guidebooks on Japan to see what your new home would be like. And unless the books have changed dramatically in the past year, you didn't find much! Well, I'm happy to say that Iwate and the many things it has to offer have been sadly overlooked as a beautiful place to experience Japan.
Iwate (literally meaning "rock hand") is alive with the traditional culture of Japan. There always seems to be some kind of ancient festival being celebrated by the friendly people of this largely rural part of the country. You will often be invited to observe and even to participate in the general revelry of these traditional celebrations. You may also find (to your chagrin at times) that it is difficult to get lost in the crowd in Iwate. In this community-based, rural area you will most likely find it easier than in the cities to get involved and to establish close, long-lasting friendships with the many people you will meet.
Although the rich culture of Japan is abundant, I believe the natural beauty of Iwate is what really astounds most JETs living here. The Ou and Kitakami mountain ranges run parallel through the prefecture from north to south with the highest peak -- Mt. Iwate--overlooking the capital city, Morioka. These mountains provide not only spectacular views but also excellent skiing during the winter. The mountains are also sprinkled with many famous onsens (natural hot springs) that can be enjoyed throughout the year. The jagged, rocky coastline (almost all of which has been designated national park land) is even more breathtaking. Sitting on the beach enjoying the coastal breezes provides a brief respite from the summer heat and humidity.
Despite the fact that Iwate is the second largest prefecture in Japan (Hokkaido is the largest), it is very easy to travel around. Efficient trains and buses crisscross the prefecture, taking you just about anywhere you want to go. The Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train) runs up the middle of Iwate and reduces a 535 km (320 mile) jaunt to Tokyo to three and half hours. When you don't have much cash, but you have some time, you can also get down to Tokyo via overnight buses from many cities in Iwate. Also, more and more JETs are buying or renting cars which makes getting around to see the sights and friends even easier. Driving in the winter, though, can be quite dangerous on the narrow, windy Japanese roads, especially since snow- and ice-covered roads are never treated with salt or even sand.
Iwate is on about the same latitude as New York City, so we experience all four seasons. The summers are hot (usually around 25 degrees C) and humid, especially during the rainy season which officially ends in July but which realistically stretches through August. You will definitely want some lightweight rain gear for your first month here. Autumn is full of crisp, windy days that are great for enjoying the outdoors and watching the leaves change into brilliant reds and yellows.
Autumn soon gives way to a rather frigid winter. The central and northern parts of Iwate are very cold and blanketed with snow from late December until March. The winter would not be that harsh except for the fact that because most Japanese homes do not have central heating, it is often the same temperature inside your apartment as it is outside. Most JETs get by with kerosene heaters (which will either be provided by your office or which you can buy from your predecessor) and an ingenious invention called the kotatsu that you will come to know and love. It's basically a low table with a heating element (resembling a Burger King french fry warmer) on the underside which keeps your legs and feet quite toasty. The winters are generally more mild along the coast and in the southern parts of Iwate, and there is not as much snow, but the chill is nevertheless hard to escape. No matter from where you hail, a good parka, warm sweaters, long underwear, and gloves are a wise investment. I know it's difficult to think of your winter wardrobe in the middle of the summer, but planning ahead (AND SHIPPING AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BEFORE YOU COME) will make life much easier and more comfortable once you are here.
Well, the above are just a few general facts about life in Iwate. I hope you will enjoy the rest of your summer, but try to save some energy for all the fun things you can do in Iwate.